| Condensed Backgammon Glossary – Part one
The time has come to familiarize ourselves with the terms and definitions used in the game of Backgammon. For additional details on a particular definition, I suggest that you refer to MSN Search. This glossary will be especially helpful to novice and intermediate players. Because the list is somewhat lengthy, it will be covered in two installments. So away we go!
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AUTOMATIC DOUBLE
An option rule in which the Doubling Cube is turned once each time the opening dice roll (one die per player) reults in a double. For example, if each player tosses a three, the cube is turned is turned to "2". If two sets of matching dice are thrown at the beginning of the game, the cube is turned to "4", etc.
ANCHOR
This is a point which is established in your opponent's inner board. You begin the game with the 24 point (or the 1 point, if you have the light color checkers) established. A preferred anchor point is the 20 point (the opponent's inner board)
ATTACKING GAME
An attempt to close out your opponent by hitting in your inner board.
BACKGAME
A strategy in which you try to hold two or three points in your opponent's inner board, especially if he is ahead in pip count or the race to win the game. The idea is build your inner board at the same time, and hope to hit him as he tries to advance into his inner board. It can be risky, and a few lucky rolls by your opponent can result in your facing a Gammon or Backgammon.
BACKGAMMON
The final result of a game in which one player has borne off all of his men, while his opponent still has a checker in the winner's inner board or on the bar. It counts as three 3 points, or a triple game.
BAR
The middle part of the board (usually an elevated ridge) in which checkers which have been "hit" are placed, and are forced to re-enter on the opponent's inner board.
BAR POINT
Another way to state the 18 point (or the 7 point). Please refer to diagram.
BEARING OFF (or BEAROFF)
Moving your checkers to your inner board, and then removing them by making favorable rolls. This is often called the "end game"
BEAVER
(See below)
BLOT
A single checker on one point - (sometimes called an "isolani", a term taken from the game of Chess).
BUILDER
A checker, which is a blot or "isolani", and is intentionally placed with the hope of making a particular point on the next roll.
CHOUETTE
A variation or optional game in which several players compete against each other using the same board. This is usually a money or stakes game.
CLOSED BOARD
A position in which you or your opponent have made or covered all six points in the inner or "home" board. If the other player has a checker on the bar, he is blocked from re-entering, until the other player has opened a point on the inner board.
COMFORT STATION
Another name for the 13 point, which holds five of your checkers at the beginning of s game. It is a safety point, and often a vital connection to your outer and inner boards.
COVER
Completing a point, by placing a second checker on your own blot.
CRAWFORD RULE
(See below)
CUBE or DOUBLING CUBE
See below)
DOUBLE
A dual term which refer to the roll of dice, or more frequently, the offer to increase the stakes of the game with the use of a doubling cube.
DROP
Declining the opponent's double, and accepting the points on the cube.
ENDGAME
A term borrowed from the game of Chess, describing a position in which one or both of the players have begun to bear off checkers.
ENTER
To remove a checker from the bar, and place it on the opponent's inner board (according to what is rolled).
GAMMON
The result which occurs when your bear off all of your checkers, before your opponent has borne off any of his checkers. It counts as two points. (a double game). If the Cube is turned, that value is doubled.
HIT
To attack an opponent's "blot" or single checker on a given point, by rolling the exact number required to occupy said point. It forces the opponent's checker to the Bar.
HOME BOARD
Another term for your inner board (lower right hand corner of the diagram).
INDIRECT SHOT
A blot which can be hit by an opponent's roll of seven or more. (Sometimes called a "combination" roll.)
Part 2 of the Glossary will be featured in the next column.
The Doubling Cube
The introduction of the Doubling Cube (circa 1920) changed the game dramatically and helped to increase its popularity. The innovator remains anonymous to this day. Prior to the cube, Backgammon was a much slower and duller game, in which luck played a significantly larger role. A player, who was losing badly, often "snatched victory from the jaws of defeat" with a string of lucky rolls. Each face of the cube starts with the number 2 and continues with 4, 8, 16, 32, and 64. At the beginning of the game, the cube sits on the bar, or on the side of the board. During the game, any player (while it is his turn to roll), may offer the cube to his opponent. The initial stake is 2 units or 2 points. The other player may accept the cube, and the game is now worth 2 points. He now owns the cube, and can offer it back for a stake of 4 points, while it is his turn to roll. Should he decline the cube, it is the same as forfeiting, and the game counts as 1 point. Gammons and Backgammons double and triple the numerical value of the cube.
The Crawford Rule
This is named after Johnny Crawford, the legendary Bridge player, and Backgammon expert. Suppose you are playing a match for a fixed number of points (let us say 5 points, for the sake of discussion). If your opponent is winning and has 4 points, you are not allowed to use the Doubling Cube in the next game (only). For example, the opponent is winning 4 games to 2. You may not use the Cube in the game which is starting. However, if you win this game, making the score 4 - 3 in his favor, you may use the Cube in any successive games.
Beaver:
This usually applies to money games. If Player #1 doubles, and Player# 2 thinks that he still has a good position, Player# 2 may turn the cube one more position (example - from 2 to 4), and keep the cube on his side. This is called "redoubling". The stakes can really get high if the cube is offered again!
Jacoby Rule
Here is another option (named after another Bridge legend), which applies to high stakes games. It states that a Gammon or Backgammon may not be counted as such unless the cube has been offered and accepted. The idea here is to prevent long and boring undoubled games and to move the games along. The Jacoby Rule is not applicable to match play.
Opening Rolls and Plays
(continued from February Column)
4-3: The building play of 13-10; 13-9 is solid. 24-20 and 13-10 is good. All others are inferior. (I would not really quibble with 24-21; 13-9)
4-2: 8-4; 6-4 is the classic book move.
4-1: The best line is 24-23; 13-9. The alternative of 13-9; 6-5 is acceptable.
3-2: Splitting with 24-21; 13-11 is preferred over building with 13-10; 13-11.
3-1: Is there any other play besides 8-5; 6-5?
2-1: Two good choices and both are equal. 13-11; 6-5 (slotting), or 24-23; 13-11.
Next month, we will continue with opening game strategy, and I will complete the glossary. See you then!
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