| April Quiz
Last month, we presented a game situation with an interesting scenario. These were the questions:
What is the Pip Count for each side in this position? Who has the better position? What is the best play for "O" if it is his turn, and he rolls 3 - 2? How about 6- 3? How about double threes?
<------ Light pieces move this way
Dark pieces move this way -----à
24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
<------ Dark pieces move this way
Light pieces move this way -----à
Pip Count - Light Pieces - 88
Dark Pieces - 144
The light pieces ("X") have a huge lead in the count, and 12 checkers already located in their inner board. At first glance, it appears that the light side has a big edge. The dark side (it sounds like the “Evil Empire” for sure!) has only four checkers on its inner board. However, the dark side has a five point working Prime, which threatens to bury alive the light pieces on the 1-point. Furthermore, there are four more dark pieces at the 13 and 20 points poised to come around and strengthen the prime. It's all about position here! The light inner board has four inner covered points; this will surely break down if the two checkers on the opposite 1-point do not escape. Finally, the threat of a gammon or backgammon is so compelling that offering the Doubling Cube is not the best move at this time. In many ways, this situation is very kindred to that of a game of Chess in which you are losing materially while having an overwhelming position with multiple threats of Checkmate!
How does the person with the dark pieces play a 3 - 2 roll? I like 20 - 17,
hitting the lone light piece, and 20 - 18. Another choice is 13 - 11 and 13 -10, bringing up two more "builders.’ The latter is very inferior, as it could get stung with a nasty 3 - 6 combination roll ! And we don't want that isolani on the 17 point to join his brethren in the inner board.
Now, let's look at a 6 - 3 roll. Hit the light checker on the 17 point, and bring the other dark checker to the 14 point. Double threes? Wow! Form the six point prime by moving two checkers to the 10 point, and then hitting the light checker on the 17 point as part of a 20 -17, 20 – 17 play. Now the dark position is overwhelming. Barring some incredible and
extremely bad rolls by the player with the dark pieces, this game is all over, except for the proverbial shouting.
THE DOUBLING CUBE
The doubling cube has six sides and is a little larger than a standard die. The numbers 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, and 64 are embossed on its faces. It is often called "The Cube and it allows the participants in a game to wager or bet on the game while it is in progress. This innovation appeared in the mid-1920s in New York City. The idea was to reduce some of the luck factor by rewarding the player with a superior position. In other words, if you were winning decisively, you could double the stakes by offering the Cube to your opponent. He could resign on the spot and lose one "unit" or one game. Or he could play on in a bad position, with the distinct possibility of losing two units or games. Of course he could have "good dice" (several lucky rolls) and steal a win! Prior the use of the Cube, Backgammon was a game of racing and/or blocking with the luck of the rolls often deciding the outcome. The Cube forced players to understand strategy, tactics, and a knowledge of math.
At the start of a game, the Cube is placed on middle of the bar or at the side of the board, somewhere near the midway area. Most players prefer to turn the Cube to "64" at the beginning, which indicates it is a new game. Either player has access to the Cube prior to his roll of the dice. At any time during the game a player may offer the Cube to his opponent. This offer is sensibly made when that player has a decent advantage. The first double offered doubles the stakes (the Cube is turned to "2"). The opponent may decline the double, which is tantamount to resignation. Or, he may accept the double, and move the cube to his side of the board. Now, he owns the Cube, and has the option to make the next double. Should his position become favorable, he may offer to increase the stakes to four games and offer the Cube.
Most games will end without the Cube in play, or at the 2 level. A few will go on the 4 level. In some longer matches, you will see the occasional 8 level. Anything past that is very unusual. (Most matches are set for 11 points). Stories about 16, 32, and 64 game Cubes are fantasy! In the event a player wins a Gammon or Backgammon and owns the Cube, the turned number on the Cube is doubled or tripled. Finally, there are some players who like the variation that requires the Cube to be turned to 2, if both players roll the same number on the first roll of the game. This is called an "automatic" double. Novice players are also advised to review the rules / option regarding "Beavers" and the "Jacoby" Rule. These topics will be covered in future columns. In summary, if you have never used the Cube in your games, you know how it feels to be robbed by very lucky rolls by your opponent after you had a clear advantage. The Cube will force your opponent to make those lucky rolls--should he decide to accept it.
Next month we will explore board positions in which doubles are appropriate, and when they are not.
See you in June!
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